Real often we get this question. Our Loudspeaker are developed with an eye even on small power amplifiers: they are able to harmonize and the optional bass impedance correction they get even more power amplifier friendly High End is not necessarily expensive, therefore we have tested and developed our speaker even with the affordable components of Musical Fidelity, Exposure and so on. According to our partners (you can recognize some of them in our news) and our dealers, there is plenty of other power amplifier fitting to our equipment: Audionet, Trafomatic, Einstein, MastersounD, McIntosh, Octave are great with our small and big Models. But I think that our list is not finished here... Main rule: experience makes the difference. Ask our retailer and distributors for suggestions. They have lots of alternatives and they are available to give you suggestion, try setups and test our speakers with your personal equipment! Remember to fix an appointment.

Ich kann Ihnen leider kein Bild mit den 2 Furniere nebeneinander zukommen lassen. Oft haben wir eines der (nicht Standard) Furniere noch nie an dem Lautsprecher angewendet.
Das Bild mit den 2 Furniere nebeneinander ist auch schwierig als Vergleich anzubieten, weil jedes Furnier ein Unikat ist und dementsprechend könnte etwas dunkler oder heller ausfallen oder eine andere Struktur haben, als abgebildet.

Wir geben absichtlich keine Angaben einer empfohlener Verstärkerleistung, weil das sehr unterschiedlich ist, wieviel Leistung notwendig ist.
Aus mehreren Gründen:
- 10W Röhre sind anders als 10W Transistor
- Die Raumeigenschaften spielen eine wesentliche Rolle in der notwendigen Leistung
- Die Musik Hörgewohnheiten sind auch wichtig (höre ich flüster-leise oder Live Rock Konzert-Pegel)
- Welche Musikrichtung?

Und jetzt aus meiner Erfahrung:
Einmal an einer Messe hatten wir einen Verstärker zur Verfügung, der auch einen Ausgangsleistungs-Messung gemacht hat: an einer Messe mit der Genuin FS 2. Da war mit 10-11 Watt brachial laut. Der normale Bedarf lag bei 6-7 Watt.
Also, ich empfehle immer einen Testversuch im eigenen System.

Lot of HiFi producers tend to exaggerate some aspects of music reproduction, so You get full concentration on one single aspect of sorts out of the HiFi chain: You loose focus.

On our side, we always spend time trying to have the best coherence possible between mid high and bass, try to focus on high dynamic behavior using components with lot of reserve and strength. This coherence is not just in kind of sound but as well in speed and impulse, the loudspeakers must be fast, but must have the same speed. Otherwise You get some feeling of delay or mismatch.

Then we want to have long time listening experience, that means being able to listening to music for plenty of hours without rising the feeling of switching off the system due to tiredness. It must play homogeneously. It must deliver the feeling of ease and even at small volumes must be able to deliver full dynamic.

Our reference are not amplified concerts, where the instruments are not going trough a power amplifier or a reproduction system. Of those, we try to have as much enjoyment as possible to be sure to come as near as possible to the reference.

I drive my Blumenhofer with a power amplifier which has both 4 ohm and 8 ohm taps. They are currently connected to the 4 ohm taps. I was wondering if, based on your experience, whether you'd recommend to use the 4 ohm taps or 8 ohm taps.

Our loudspeakers are made according to the 8Ohm definition

-----------Start Quote from ePanorma.net----------- Read more here about this theme
There is a convention to the use of the term "nominal impedance", and if the impedance over the majority of the bandwidth, specifically covering the range in spectrum where majority of the musical spectral power occurs, it's 8 ohms. A single number cannot tell all there is to tell about an impedance that varies with frequency. You must keep in mind that 'nominal impedance' is not defined in IEC. Indeed, the electronics industry was advised when the Trade Descriptions Act was introduced, that the word 'nominal' should no longer be used in specifications. That is why the IEC concept of 'rated value' is so useful. There is a very detailed definition and explanation of this term in IEC60268-2. The IEC standard (IEC60268-3) allows any "increase" above the rated value, but limits the "decrease". The standard does not allow the impedance to fall below the 80 % of the nominal value at any frequency, including DC.
-----------End Quote from ePanorma.net-----------

In the end is the personal taste that decides where is best to connect the loudspeakers to the amplifier. Electrically correct is to connect to the 8Ohm terminals of the power amplifiers, if they are 8Ohm loudspeakers, or to the 4Ohm terminals if they are 4Ohm loudspeakers. But this does not say where the loudspeakers match best or where the way it plays satisfies Your taste the best. The owner of MastersounD prefers to connect them to the 4Ohm terminals, he likes them better this way.

You should decide Yourself where You like them best

On the 16th of May 2010, after some intensive testing we decide not to include the covers for the dishes of the spykes anymore: they are not contributing in a positive way to the sound of the speakers in comparison to the steel dishes alone. In order to preserve the distance from the floor of the Fun 17 and big Fun 20 we introduce longer spykes. The suggestion came from Volker Bohlmeier of Einstein Audio.

The cables play a key role in the quality and kind of sound achieved in the reproduction.
I cannot suggest one brand instead of the other. This is not fair and it is not good, because we have not tried all the kind of cables and all the brands.
But there is one thing that is clear (and of course it is our humble opinion):
- we had bad experience with silver
- we had very good experience with copper cables

Basic rule:
- most tube amplifiers need a cross over impedance correction
- not all tubes amplifiers need an impedance correction for the lower frequencies
- solid state power amplifiers do not need impedance correction
- digital amplifier do need it

but the most important point: if you like with impedance correction better than without, then you should use it and of course the other way around

This bridge is the impedance correction bridge for the cross over frequency.

This is an additional module to linearize the impedance of the speaker in the lower frequencies. To have more information about the effect please look at the option page and its pictures

Electrically spoken, the Genuin FS 3 MK 1 has not changed at all
The only difference is the foot of the speaker, which has been adapted to the foot of the other speakers for family look coherency

Ehrlich gesagt, ich kann nicht eine Veränderung nur einer von diesen Maßnahmen zuordnen sondern zur allgemeine Alchemie. Die neue Genuin FS 3 MK 2 ist langen Schritten vor ihrem Vorgänger, es ist ein deutlich einfacheres und reicher Lautsprecher.
Das 25 cm Bass ist deutlich schneller und präziser als der 20er. Die Frage ist in wie weit diese Verbesserung von der Harmonischen Konstruktion eine Folge ist eher als vom Treiber selber.

Home cinema speakers are special finishing and are built only on confirmed order. Some Centers are made to fit to several mains.
Our customer are mainly 2-channel customers therefore we did not have the need to produce the center components to the remaining speakers.
Do you want to be the first who orders?

Home cinema speakers are special finishing and are built only on confirmed order.
Our customer are mainly 2-channel customers therefore we did not have the need to produce the surround components to the remaining speakers.
Do you want to be the first who orders?

The dust cover protects only the bass woofer of the speaker.
The horns are structurally protected by their construction.